741-03-04P means the following

    Dash 2 for oil pressure pipes, brake pipes on motorcycles and formula cars.

Note it is common practice on race cars to plumb the entire high pressure brake system in Goodridge stainless steel hose. This also enables the system to be built without the need for flaring or bending rigid pipes. Flexible brake lines can be covered on assembly with a heat-shrink covering available in various colours . Alternatively spiral wrap can be applied after assembly , both these finishes give abrasion protection to adjacent items.

Threads

People often get confused when talking about thread sizes, this is because it IS to the uninitiated. Many different standards have grown up over the years but below are the main ones we come across together with metric threads. The chart below is intended to help you chose the right parts to link to each other. If you do not have a good understanding of threads then it is better not to guess and let us help! We are always happy to measure parts or give guidance on thread sizes.

The main confusion occurs with BSP and NPTF threads, This is because they are both 'pipe ' threads and as such the nominal dimension is related to the bore of the pipe it suits as apposed to UNF( or JIC) and metric threads

I.E. a 3/8x24UNF thread measures nominally 3/8" across the peaks of the male thread and counts 24 threads per inch and a M10x1 thread measures nominally 10mm across the peaks of a male thread with 1 thread per mm. Whereas a 1/2" BSP x14 whilst the 14 still means that it counts 14 threads per inch the outside diameter of the thread is 0.83"and not 0.5".

Also worthy of note is that on metric threads the pitch is half the thread depth hence on the female thread on a M12x1.5 the ID is 10.5mm.

The dimensions given for NPTF are taken from mid point.

 Now with a thread chart a vernier or micrometer and a little knowledge they become relatively easy to recognise but many still get it wrong so be careful .

Example. We can see from the adaptors page, that Part No.741 is a BSP to JIC male adaptor. So if we wish to order a 1/2" BSP to 7/8UNF (-10 JIC) adaptor we see from the chart that this is represented by 741-08-10 Then suffixed by the material letter i.e. D for alloy etc.

Thread Chart

Please use this chart to help construct the part number (od refers to male and id to female threads)

Identifying Seat Types   (When we talk about a seat it is referring to the face which seals the fitting concerned )

Standard conventions are that BSP male threads are concave, JIC male threads are convex whereas UNF are the same thread form as JIC but have a flat seat

Metric can have seats in any of the above configurations.

Another major confusion when trying to order on the phone comes when explaining which type of thread, just think of the human anatomy...............

i.e. the male threads into the female receptacle thread

Planning, measuring and correct installation 

To help you and us understand your requirements we strongly recommend that you draw a schematic of your projected installation, this should outline the following. 1.) The thread and or spigot sizes; 2.) The bore of the hose; 3.) The angles and alignment of the fittings; 4.) The route of the hosing; 5) the length of the hose; 6.) Type of hose supports. If you fax. or send us your drawings please be sure to put your name address and most important your telephone number . So that we can respond quickly and efficiently.

Correct measurements

Whilst you can supply measurements with a sketch showing where you have taken your dimensions from, below is the std conventions when measuring hose lengths, using the guidelines below will eliminate any confusion when ordering

All measurements are taken from the center of seat A to the center of seat B, please also refer to the section 'correct installation' below before finalising your lengths.

Hose Assembly Installation

It is important when installing a hose that the hose should be fitted in such a way that there is no torsional stress (i.e. twist) is applied to the hose, also that the minimum bend radius of the hose is observed. A torsional force will reduce the life of a hose. Also if the hose is in a dynamic movement situation the bend should be in one plane, otherwise a hose that is bent in two or more planes when subjected to movement will be applying a torsional force which may damage or shorten the life of the hose.

When fitting hoses between fixed points even if they are not subjected to movement slack must be allowed, as a hose will shorten under pressure and in extreme circumstances could cause the assembly to fail

Relieve sharp bends by using elbows or right angle adaptors

Avoid flexing or movement of unions by using correct line supports or clamps

IF IN ANY DOUBT, PLEASE ASK, WE WILL BE HAPPY TO HELP

WHY AN?

AN,  The AN series originates from the aerospace industry , this is because post war racers saw the usefulness of lightweight reliable hose fittings and there was an abundance of surplus available, as these stocks dried up and other fittings were needed to fit the job, companies like Earls in the USA (In fact Earls started as a aircraft surplus supply company) and Goodridge in the UK were born to fulfil the demand . Ironically the Aircraft industry standard (and most of the surplus stock) were Aeroquip but they did not see the market for motorsport related fittings until later.

The AN series derives from the Army-Navy specs also known by some as Air-force-Navy specs I think this is just because the American air-force is United States Army Air Force..

Brake Pedal and Balance bar set up

1          Set distance of the centre line of the clevises to 2 ½” this should mean the clevises only have a small side clearance on the balance bar tube

2          Thread push rod lock nuts onto the master cylinder pushrods with approximately 3/8” to 7/16” thread engagement into the clevises.

3          Bolt the master cylinders into place

4          Pedal  position is adjusted by threading the pushrods in or out of the clevises, but do not  over shorten, as this will reduce piston travel.

5          Brakes are best bleed by doing both master cylinders at the same time

6          With pedal depressed adjust the pushrods, if necessary, so the adjusting shaft is parallel to the master cylinder mounting surface, so as not to change the pedal height the length of both push rods have to be changed, One must be lengthened and the other shortened by the same number of turns.

7          With the pedal retracted (at rest) the adjusting shaft does not have to be parallel with the master cylinder mounting surface, ( It MUST be as Note 6)

8          Once adjusted lock the clevises to the pushrod with the lock nuts,

When adjusting the balance bar the clevises always stay at the same spacing but the proportion of force applied to each cylinder is altered by moving the pivot bearing. Turning the adjusting bar , either clockwise or anti clockwise will move the pivot position within the balance bar cross tube

9          It is very important that the pushrods are adjusted to allow them to be fully retracted ( i.e. over adjustment or obstruction) from the master cylinder, anything that does not allow the full pushrod return will cause the brakes to lock on because the brake fluid cannot return to the reservoir ( pedal return springs are recommended)

If you are unable to achieve a satisfactory pedal position , you may need to consider an alternative length push rod.

10                We recommend that the balance bar is fitted with safety spacers each side of its centre bearing. These restrict the swivel action of the bar to 10 degrees, which means the pedal continues to operate on one system, should there be a loss of fluid from the other.

      Note :  This can easily be checked, by someone sitting in the car and depressing the brake pedal, and then if another removes the bleed valve on a front brake calliper, the pedal should depress slightly, and then stop, with the rear brakes still on. Obviously it will be necessary to refill the reservoir and re-bleed the front brakes as necessary.

Brakes are obviously a very important part of the car, and if you are unsure about any area of their installation, you should seek professional help, or call us for advice. 

Assembly instructions for 200 series fittings
Cut the hose to length and push to hose into the socket until it stops against the thread inside, mark the hose at the bottom of the socket so that you can see if the hose pushes out on assembly
Lubricate the thread and nipple of the fitting and put the socket into a vice and hand start the fitting by pushing and turning clockwise (some effort may be required)
Then using a spanner complete tightening the fitting until there is about 1mm gap between the socket and the fitting, check that the hose has not been pushed out of the socket more than 2mm.

Assembly instructions for 600 series fittings
	Cut the hose to length ensuring that there are no stray pieces for braid and that the cut is square. Fit both sleeve nuts onto the hose, back to back.
	Put the fitting into a vice insert the hose onto the spigot this will size the hose and help to ease the braid away from the liner
	Tease out the braid away from the teflon using a mandrel, pick or small screw driver, making sure no to damage the teflon liner, then push on the olive ensuring that no braid slips in between the olive and the liner. Make sure that the olive is on fully by pushing up against a flat surface
	Assemble the fitting, pushing the olive over the spigot, lightly oil the thread then pull down the sleeve nut onto the fitting and tighten by hand. Put fitting into a vice with soft or ground jaws and tighten down the fitting by turning clockwise, when using banjos make sure of the alignment before making the final turn.